Deco Dressing: By Night

Deco dressing at its finest: Deco Belles in evening gowns from the 1920s, '30s and early '40s pose during a 75th anniversary fashion show at Oakland's Bellevue Club organized by Laurie Gordon. Details below on the models, their gowns, and where to find them (see our Vintage Fashion Guidebook for more about these stores). From left:

• Elissa Koestenbaum in a nile green chiffon from 1928 with rhinestone appliques and shoulder scarf available at Vintage Silhouettes in Rodeo (reasonably priced !);
• Erin Mahoney in a mid-1920s Gabrielle Sevals irridescent floral beaded gown (valued at over $8000) from Trappings of Time in Palo Alto.
• Angie Major in a black velvet lace and gold lame early 1920s gown with elaborate beadwork from Soiree Vintage in Oakland.
• Alison Hurwitz models an early 1930s bias cut gown with rhinestone circles. Was reasonably priced at Vintage Silhouettes so Alison purchased it herself and will be wearing it to the Ball!
• Miss Art Deco Serafina Miller modeling a black velvet mid 1930s gown from the private collection of Barbara Grigg (vendor at the Art Deco Show and Sale coming June 6)...elaborate cut out work embellished with rhinestones.
• Kailen Neff in a metallic crocheted dress and jacket from the late 1930s/early 40s. Private collection of Barbara Grigg. Gold lame slip by Theresa LaQuey.

Everyone loves pretty girls in vintage fashions! But wearing vintage gowns is not mandatory for ADSC evening events. Dressing up is, of course. "It's almost impossible to overdress for an ADSC event," admits founder Michael Crowe. Tiaras and evening furs are brought out for the annual Art Deco Preservation Ball, now in its 19th year.

If you are not a vintage dresser, never fear. Dresses that echo the lines of these gowns can be found in modern stores, including discount stores and catalogs--even in your closet. Luckily, retro is in. The gowns above share common design elements: soft, elegant fabrics with drape; gowns that conceal and reveal at the same time; and discreetly applied glitz. Note also, hair that is sleek and close to the head, not drooping over the shoulders. And shoes you can dance in, featuring straps and cutouts.

Dressing up for an occasion is fun! There is a wonderful synergy when so many people have made an effort to look their best. Gowns of timeless simplicity are always appropriate. The best part is, you become a participant in the scene, and not a spectator. So put on your dancing shoes and prepare to have a fabulous time.

Gentlemen: White or Black Tie

The old "soup and fish" or white tie and tails -- full evening dress like Fred Astaire -- is worn by many at the ball. Top hats, walking sticks, and gloves complete the formal ensemble. Black tie, or tuxedo, is slightly less formal and equally proper for a ball. Wearing a black vest instead of the more modern cumberbund lends a deco touch. And as etiquette books advised, a gentleman may also appear in a dark suit and tie at a formal evening occasion. White dinner jackets were worn during the summer, in the tropics or at a resort.

Women rarely wore pants in public during the '20s and '30s, and certainly not to balls -- unless you were Marlene Dietrich or a daring deco dandy like ADSC's Alice Jurow, who donned full vintage evening wear for her recent "Androgynous Dandy" lecture at the Legion of Honor. She's added a gardenia and evening scarf to soften the look.

For pictures of Art Deco Preservation Balls past, visit our Rotogravure Pages.

More Deco Dressing information here.

Many pictures and articles at the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild.