The Gatsby Summer Afternoon

Deco Dressing For Men

When stepping out in the swing era, men had three basic choices for evening wear:
- the full dress suit or "tails", worn to the opera, private parties, or first nights
- the dinner jacket or "tuxedo", worn to nightclubs, evening parties, first week of plays
- the daytime business suit, worn to less expensive seats at concerts, to the movies, or out dancing!

The most exciting dance venues -- like Sweet's Ballroom -- attracted a cross-section of society, all dressed in their best. Those who had it donned the tuxedo for an evening out. The "swells" who had already been to the opera or a private party dropped by in top hat, white tie and tails. Young working people who might not own a tuxedo came in their best dark suit, with a good white shirt and simple dark tie. They all came for the music!

The Art Deco Preservation Ball is always a great occasion to don your finest duds. Since we are celebrating the swing era, in a site where big bands actually played, we are going with the theme in dress.

Are we forgetting the ladies? Of course not.
When your man is in tails, "Anything Goes" -- long, dazzling, decollete, and bejewelled--tiara optional.
When he's in a tux, you wear a less lavish evening dress, ankle or day-length
If he's in a dark suit, you wear cocktail dress or a simple day-length gown with evening accents, such as rhinestone clips.
You match your man (or vice versa) in degree of formality.

WHAT NOT TO WEAR: Leave the turtlenecks, dark dress shirts, Nehru jackets, Levis, Dockers, and athletic shoes in the closet. Remember, everyone attending an Art Deco Society event becomes part of the "scene." It's part of what makes a Art Deco Preservation Ball such a magical evening! White dinner jackets are worn at resorts, in the tropics, or in the summer. Colored evening jackets and cumberbunds came in during the 1950s. Leave them home too.

Here's what a typical etiquette book of the day had to say about men's dress!

CORRECT DRESS FOR MEN (circa 1940)

"The well-dressed man has about him a sort of carelessness that you cannot fail to recognize. This sounds like a paradox, but what we mean is there is no studied effort to be well-dressed, no obvious striving for effect He is well-groomed, but not consciously so. His suit is fashionable, but it does not challenge attention. His hat and shoes are faultless; his linens immaculate. He gives the impression of having dressed well without trying.

"It scarcely seems necessay to add that well-groomed men are never in need of a shave or hair cut, and that their nails are always presentable. A high polish, by the way, is in bad taste for men.

"Whether in street, office, or home, the shirt-sleeve habit is unmannerly and ill-bed. The gentleman does not remove his coat; not even the generous new etiquette will permit it. When the weather is intolerable, linen or pongee suits should be worn.

Correct Formal Evening Dress
"A gentleman wears a dress suit for evening weddings, the opera, ceremonious dinners or balls, and all highly formal evening occasions. With these formal "tails" one wears a white single or double-breasted waistcoat, a plain stiff-bosom shirt, a wing collar with wide opening, and a wide white bow tie. Handkerchiefs and gloves are white also, and if a muffler is worn it should be white or black-and-white. The overcoat worn with a dress suit must be either black or dark blue. Black dress shoes, black silk socks, and top-hat complete the full-dress ensemble. If a stick is carried, it should be one without ornamentation.

The Dinner Jacket
"For restaurant and theater wear, for dining and home and all informal evening occasions requiring more than ordinary street clothes, one wears the dinner jacket, or, as it is more familiarly known, the tuxedo.

"With the dinner jacket one wears a black or white waistcoat, as desired; a wing collar with a wide black silk bow tie; a plain stiff bosom shirt (pleats permissible only for very informal wear), and black shoes and socks. One may wear top-hat, bowler, or felt. Hat and gloves may be gray.

The Business Suit
"The well-dressed man is conservative. His business, or street, suit is faultless in cut and workmanship, of excellent material, and fashionable without being extreme. The correct business suit is inconspicuous in pattern, style, and color.

"The business suit is correct for all informal daytime occasions. It may be work to very informal afternoon weddings, informal luncheons, and informal teas. In the country, or for church, the blue coat with white flannel or duck trousers is the most conventional informal attire for warm weather.

"Of course, the well-dressed man wears country clothes in the country only. He does not parade the city in tweed golf togs or white flanel trousers. His dress is always appropriate to time, place, and person."

Today’s Etiquette, Lillian Eichler, Doubleday (New York), 1941.

Last revised: 4/5/05